What to Expect from a Temazcal, the Ancient Prehispanic Sweat Lodge
January 22, 2021I take a deep breath as the puerta to the clay hut in which I sit is closed. Darkness permeates the space as I settle into place, readying my mind for what’s to come. Words I do not understand are chanted by a shaman while he douses the hot rocks in front of me with a bouquet of water-soaked eucalyptus, filling the cramped structure with hisses of steam. Soon, every inch of my skin is drenched. I breathe again, this time feeling less anxious about my claustrophobia and more comfortable with what’s unfolding here. This is a temazcal, and I am about to be reborn.
![]() |
Temazcal experience in Mexico City |
What is a temazcal?
Dating back thousands years, the temazcal is a prehispanic
tradition practiced throughout Mesoamerica. The powerful purification ceremony
was very commonplace in ancient times and was used for many purposes, from
treating illness to preparing for war.
Basically, the ritual involves crawling into a rounded mud
hut (also known as a temazcal), which symbolizes the womb of Mother Earth.
During the ceremony – which can last for hours – the participant will chant,
set intentions and not surprisingly, sweat. A lot. Sitting on the ground in
darkness provides an opportunity to connect with one’s body and soul. Crawling
out of the hut (or womb) represents returning to the world as a reborn human.
Although not as commonly practiced as it once was, the temazcal
still exists throughout Mexico (and many parts of the Americas, really),
though most people today opt to participate in one to experience a release and
have a chance to cleanse the body and mind. (The high-intensity heat helps the
body to purge itself of toxins, while the meditative and intention-setting
aspects of the experience help to heal the mind of past traumas and negative
energy.)
The adventure begins
Marking the end of the wild ride that was 2020, I decided to
start the new year by cleansing myself of any lingering bad juju by signing up
for one I came across listed on Airbnb’s Experiences platform. (This has become
my go-to site for finding unique activities when traveling to new places. Unlike
standard tours, these small group experiences are very intimate and allow you
to genuinely connect with true local experts. If you haven’t tried one yet, you’re
missing out!)
My Experience host, Luis Belmonte, picked me up in Condesa around
6:30pm and by the time we arrived at Ectagono, a sustainability-focused farm in
southwestern Mexico City, the full moon was high in the sky. Despite being in
the city, I felt as if I could’ve been in a small town. It was so quiet and peaceful.
As I got my bearings, nervousness set in. Here I was, in the middle of what
seemed like nowhere, about to participate in an ancient ritual that involved a tiny
space and very high heat. What was I doing?
I then met Javier Moctezuma, the shaman that would be leading
the ceremony. He had a calming energy that was immediately noticeable. Introductions
were made over a cup of hot cacao. Known as the “food of the gods” bythe Mayans, the beverage, made from cocoa beans, was often consumed in rituals
and healing processes. Not tainted by sugar or dairy, pure cacao is absolutely
delightful and has positive effects on the mind. After meeting Javier and finishing
my cup, I felt far more at ease and ready for whatever was to come.
Next, Javier led us in a dance lesson of sorts while Luis interpreted his explanation. The dance moves, which are closely linked to the four directions, followed a beautiful rhythm, created by Javier on his drum. Although we all had a bit of a difficult time following (God knows I looked incredibly awkward), our dancing together created a sense of bonding among the group and warmed us up, as the temperatures had dropped quite a bit at this point. We’d later dance these same motions – in our minds – in the hut.
We changed into our bathing suits and were ready to start
the ceremony.
Returning to Mother
Before we entered the sweat lodge, we offered our intentions
and prayers to the Aztec god Ōmeteōtl, each tossing a pinch of a plant mixture into the
fire which heated the rocks that would be used in the temazcal. These
plants helped to convey our prayers to the spirit world. We prayed for clarity,
for peace, for the end of the pandemic. For the people in our lives: our
friends, our families, the new faces we’d met that evening.
Javier then performed a purification ritual, chanting over
us individually and cleansing us with what appeared to be a burning bushel of
herbs and leaves. We then each entered and took our spots around the temazcal,
known as Tonantzi, or “our mother.” The four of us sat in each of the four directions – North, South, East and West – to create a powerful channel of
energy in which our communal cleansing could pass.
The heated volcanic rocks were then brought in, one by one, each of which was marked by Javier. As the temperature quickly rose, I found myself getting nervous again.
Surrendering fear, harnessing courage
I should mention here that another reason I chose to
participate in the temazcal was because I knew it would be a mental
challenge. For some reason, in recent years, I’ve become quite fearful of small
spaces, and have even experienced a few panic attacks as a result. I saw this as an opportunity to confront and
overcome my fears. I turned my attention toward my breath and was able to center
myself just as the door to the hut was closed off and darkness filled the space
around us.
As Javier doused the rocks with water using a bundle of eucalyptus
– a plant believed to have healing properties – steam began to fill the hut. Breathing
seemed to be more difficult, but I continued to focus on my inhales and exhales.
Slowly but surely, my anxieties eased as I freed my consciousness of the fear,
bit by bit.
Over the next hour or so, Javier led a number of chants and
songs and stories, all of which were spoken in Nahuatl and interpreted by Luis.
It was explained that this was a way of communicating with the spirits, but
also with one other. And I felt it. There I was, sitting with three minimally
clothed strangers in a dark, humid mud hut in the middle of a farm in Mexico.
But strangely enough, for the first time in months, I felt a sense of human connection
that I had unknowingly been yearning for.
At one point, when we were prompted to once again voice the
things we were grateful for, Javier attempted to call me by name, but admitted
he was having trouble getting it right. (After all, Mimsie is a rather uncommon
name.) When I repeated it to him, he noted that it reminded him of “Metzi,” the
goddess of the moon and night in Aztec mythology.
![]() |
Ectagono Farm, the site of our temazcal |
For the remainder of the evening, that’s what I was called: Metzi. And, I suppose if I were going to be renamed, the temazcal could not have been a more appropriate place for it to happen. As the ceremony came to a close, we exited Mother Earth’s womb, reborn new versions of ourselves.
For me personally, I felt a little lighter, a little more
focused, a little braver and a lot more prepared to take on 2021 following my temazcal
experience. (And could I not after having been renamed after a goddess!?)
Ready to try a temazcal?
Temazcals are offered throughout Mexico (from those
in people’s homes to ones at luxury resorts) and each will provide a very different
experience.
Although I have only done this one, I found it to be very
enjoyable, as I was able to not only benefit from the physical, mental and
spiritual benefits it provided, but I was also able to understand what was
being said/going on as the ritual progressed.
I really enjoyed the Airbnb experience I went
on and would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to try a temazcal
while in Mexico City. If this is your first time using Airbnb experiences, you
can use this link to get $15 off
your experience of $50 or more.
Tips for temazcal first timers
If you’re doing a temazcal for the first time, here
are a few tips to help you prepare for your experience:
1. Drink lots of water on the day before and the day
of your temazcal. Coconut water can be especially hydrating. Also, limit
your caffeine intake. You’ll sweat A LOT so arrive as hydrated as possible to
avoid getting sick and/or dehydrated.
2. Take extra clothes. Opt to wear light, breathable
and loose clothing over your bathing suit, preferably made from natural and
organic materials. Again, you’ll be sweating a lot and this will ensure you’re
comfortable. You’ll also take a cold shower, clothed, so you'll definitely want
to have a change of clothes for when you leave the temazcal.
3. Ask to sit near the entrance door if you’re
worried about the small space or heat. Should you get sick or panic, this will
allow you to exit easily and quickly.
Words and photos by Mimsie Ladner of Mims On the Move. Content may not be reproduced unless authorized.
0 comments
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.