Where Everyday is Like Halloween

Tokyo wouldn't be the same without its legendary skyline of flashing signs of neon and seemingly indecipherable characters, at least to us Westerners. Yet, in a city where uniform electronics shops, yakitori vendors, and kareoke rooms adorn every street block, sits a neighborhood bursting with character and personality, unique in every meaning of the word.

Harajuku was at the top of my list of things to experience in Tokyo and remains as one of my most memorable experiences while I was there. I had planned to go on Sunday, as this is the day when its most famous visitors- Harajuku girls- wander about decked out in their bizarre apparel to entertain the crowds, knowingly or unknowingly. These girls, many of which are "outcasts" in high school or twenty-somethings tired of their 9-5 "coffee girl" jobs, became particularly well known in the West via Gwen Stefani, pop star and purveyor of funky fashion who uses their styles in her music videos and even has a song about them.

When I exited at Omote-sando station early in the morning, I was sure I was in the wrong place. The sidewalks were wide, the streets were clean, and there was hardly any traffic. I continued to walk in the direction of Harajuku and surrounding me were the names of those very people that have defined fashion as we know it: Louis Vuitton, Prada, and Chanel to name a few. I felt more like I was in Paris or Milan rather than Tokyo. I'd later find out there were tons of cozy cafes and awesome smaller stores specializing in trendy second-hand clothing at amazing prices in the area.

Seeing as nothing was happening yet, I headed to Meiji Shrine where I met a little Japanese man who I imagined would be very much like my grandfather, if I were Japanese. Speaking almost no English, he led me to a traditional wedding being held at the shrine in addition to a samurai-like archery competition. It was all very cool, but as I previously mentioned, I'm not blabbering on about landmarks this go around. After a few hours there, he pointed me in the direction of Yoyogi Park, another destination known for it's colorful frequenters. After snacking on some takoyaki (octopus lightly fried into batter ball), I continued my search for the bizarre at the park.

I knew I was headed in the right direction when I immediately saw a motley crew of people entertaining themselves and others in various ways. College guys were practicing a choreographed hip-hop routine while a man played the saxophone nearby. A group of older women engaged in a tai chi session. Young adults played random instruments while their peers initiated interpretive dancing. What was so strange about all of this was that they were all seemingly unaware of each other. Rather than doing these things as a means of performance for those around them, they were simply carrying on with their own hobbies. Yet, I can't blame them as the atmosphere of the park was a peaceful one and the oasis of green is no doubt a nice getaway from the nearby skyscrapers and cement of Tokyo. It felt nice being in such calm surroundings, but I still hadn't found what I was looking for.That is, until I hit the gate of the park. In the time that I had walked around Yoyogi Park, gangs of Japanese clad in leather, hair perfectly gelled in Fonzie-fashion had taken over the entrance. Their rivals, donned in poodle skirts and pony-tails were nearby. Each group marked their territories with ice chests of beer, picnic mats, and speakers. One group would start the Twist and soon thereafter the next group attempted a one-up with louder music and a better hand jive. It was a bit surreal seeing these Japanese people dance to American music from the 50s. Again, this is what they do on the weekends, it's not a performance. Nevertheless, they attracted quite the crowd and it was obvious that everyone, greasers and bystanders, were enjoying themselves.

Rockabillies outside Yoyogi Park primping before twisting it out.

A boutique specializing in Lolita style clothing. (Photo credit: Google Images)

The fashion styles of Harajuku aren't limited to girls. Here, a "Harajuku boy" takes a smoke break outside Laforet Department Store.

I suppose I should mention that the Harajuku subculture consists of many different styles.

There are many "Lolita" styles in Harajuku, all of which involve modest clothing, a movement to fight against the trend of showing off more skin that is becoming more popular in a westernizing Japan. One of the most popular, gothic Lolita, being a goth-like style of course, involves a lot of black. However, this look is not to be confused with the baggy pants and colored contacts associated with your typical Marilyn Manson fan, though those types can be seen in Harajuku, as well. Gothic Lolita involves more feminine undertones so the apparel is much more elegant in nature; it also incorporates vintage styles pulled from the Victorian European era.

A "sweet Lolita" takes a break from accessory shopping to pose for a photo at BBeBee inside LaForet Department Store.

Harajuku girls decked out in decora style. (Photo credit: www.crunchyroll.com)

A young tourist expresses her surprise when seeing a Harajuku girl while crossing the street in Harajuku.

Me with a Harajuku girl in the bookstore at Laforet.