I can feel it. There's a crispness in the air that hints fall is near.

So close, in fact, that the first hints of autumn colors can be seen streaking the mostly verdant leaves that canopy the green spaces of Seoul. The aroma of roasting chestnuts permeates the busy streets downtown. Sweaters take over the storefronts of Myeongdong, Dongdaemun and Sinsa, the shopping districts of the city.

Yes, I can feel it.  And I'm giddy.

You see, there's something about autumn that makes my heart beat a little faster. There always has been. When I lived in America, it was tailgating at football games and trick-or-treating that did it for me. But here in Korea, there are a number of things that keep me eagerly waiting for this beautiful season all year long.

Here are five of them.

Mountain Hikes

For one, there's nothing more beautiful than the sight of the country as it becomes progressively saturated with a palette of autumn hues: burning crimsons, vibrant oranges, and rich browns.

Hikers enjoy the fall foliage at Seoraksan National Park in Sokcho. © Seoul Searching

It's the perfect time of year to enjoy the great outdoors, whether taking a walk at the park or hiking one of the nation's famous mountains. One of the most well-known places to see the foliage is Seoraksan National Park in the city of Sokcho, situated on the east coast of the peninsula. Inwangsan and Dobongsan Mountains in Seoul are two other beautiful and even more convenient hiking spots.

Seasonal Produce

Fall is also a time of harvest in Korea and the new crops are rich and delicious. Grains are used for making alcohol and special rice cakes called songpyeon are prepared for Chuseok, but my favorite fall food is the persimmon.

A symbol of autumn in Korea, persimmons add even more color to the foliage and offer a welcomed sweetness to the otherwise savory spread of the country's seasonal cuisine. They are particularly tasty when hardened, resembling crispy apples.

Persimmon trees add a splash of color to Gyeongbokgung Palace © Seoul Searching

Persimmons are also dried to make sujeonggwa, a punch-like drink. Dried persimmons are mixed with ginger and cinnamon to create the perfect fall beverage. Although it is traditionally served cold, I personally find it tastes best when hot, just like apple cider.

Pojangmacha & Street Food

Street food vendors serve up seasonal favorites like chestnuts, roasted sweet potatoes and hotteok, a sweet brown sugar-filled pancake. The smells that emanate from the food stalls are enticing to say the least, as are the bright orange colors of the pojangmacha, Korean street food tents.

Hotteok is a unique Korean snack made with wheat flour dough filled with dark brown sugar, cinnamon, sesame, and chopped peanuts © KoreaNet

Although these tents are open for business throughout the year, they are best enjoyed in the fall, when temperatures are ideal to load up on street snacks and swig shots of soju in the open-air spaces offered by the tents.


Finally, people are happier during the fall. I'm not sure what it is. The end of the sweltering temperatures, the time spent with family, the simple beauty that can only be created by Mother Nature. Whatever the reason, smiles are contagious and folks are friendlier.

Autumn is one of the few seasons that is capable of provoking all the senses, particularly in Korea.  It's a short season, lasting only about a month and a half, but is a wonderful time to experience the splendor of the country before the cold winter sets in.

Fall Foliage Forecast

Korea’s autumn foliage season usually starts in late September and lasts until mid-November, reaching its peak when the yellow and red colors of the trees cover 80 percent of the mountain--about two weeks after the first fall foliage is observed.

According to the Kweather forecast, the first autumn foliage of 2020 will start in the northeast regions, at Seoraksan National Park around September 26, followed by the central and southwest regions around mid-October. The autumn foliage will arrive in the southern regions between mid-October and early November. In Seoul, the autumn foliage is planned to reach its peak mostly in October.

Words and photos by Mimsie Ladner of Mims on the Move. Content may not be reproduced unless authorized.

I love sharing my experiences in Korea with you guys, but let's face it... my eyes can only see so much. So, to give you a bit of a wider perspective, I am now accepting guest posts on Seoul Searching. I'm excited to announce that the first contributor is Dale Quarrington, Korean temple aficionado and author of Korean Temples: From Korea’s Southeast Corner, with his top three temples in Korea. Check out his post below.

I am often asked what my favourite Korean temple might be. And being a bit of a Korean Buddhist temple aficionado, this question is a lot harder than it may seem with thousands of temples and various Orders located throughout the Korean peninsula. I have visited every single province in Korea, including a temple in North Korea, which certainly doesn’t make the decision any easier.

If I think really hard about it, I can narrow the list down to a top twenty or twenty-five. But when I attempt to narrow the list any further, the list becomes highly subjective. With this in mind, my top three Korean Buddhist temples would be, in no particular order: Tongdosa Temple, Bulguksa Temple and Haeinsa Temple.

So what makes them so special?



Tongdosa Temple is located in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do, and it’s one of the Three Jewel Temples of Korea. The temple represents the Buddha aspect of the Three Jewels of Buddhism (the dharma, the Buddha and the Buddhist community).

Tongdosa Temple, which means “Transmission of the Way Temple,” in English, dates all the way back to 643 C.E., when it was first established by the famed monk Jajang-yulsa.

Tongdosa Temple is beautifully situated on the slopes of Mt. Chiseosan. But what truly makes Tongdosa Temple stand out, besides its numerous and colourful temple halls, is that it houses the partial remains of the Buddha.

In fact, it was the first temple in Korea to house the partial earthly remains of Seokgamoni-bul. These remains include the Buddha’s sari (crystallized remains), a portion of his jaw, his begging bowl, and his abbot. It also just so happens to be the first place I dated my wife way back in 2003.



Another on the list is the famed Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju. Bulguksa Temple, which means “Buddhist Country Temple,” was first established in 751 C.E. (even though a smaller temple on the very same grounds dated back to 528 C.E.).

Bulguksa Temple is located at the base of Mt. Tohamsan. And the temple is the culmination and zenith of Buddhist artistry in Korea. In total, the temple houses six Korean national treasures, the most at any one temple throughout the peninsula. It was also designated, alongside neighbouring Seokguram Hermitage, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.

Perhaps the most beautiful aspect of this awe-inspiring temple is the front façade of the temple. With its outstretched stairways known as Cheongungyo (Blue Cloud Bridge) and Baekungyo (White Cloud Bridge) to the right and Yeonhwagyo (Lotus Flower Bridge) and Chilbogyo (Seven Treasures Bridge) to the left, they probably make Bulguksa Temple the most recognizable temple in all of Korea.

These bridges act as a symbolic gateway from the worldly to the spiritual. But perhaps the most recognizable aspect of the temple are the twin pagodas, Dabotap and Seokgatap; their intricate artistry truly make Bulguksa Temple a must-see. But then again, there is so much about this amazing temple that makes it a must-see.



The final temple, in my top three, is Haeinsa Temple located in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do. Like Tongdosa Temple, Haeinsa Temple is one of the Three Jewel Temples in Korea; but unlike Tongdosa Temple, Haeinsa Temple represents the dharma aspect of the Three Jewels in Buddhism. Haeinsa Temple, which means “Ocean Mudra Temple,” was first established in 802 C.E. by the monks Suneung and Ijeong, after their return from China.

Haeinsa Temple’s true claim to fame is the housing of Tripitaka Koreana’s 81,258 wooden blocks of Buddhist scriptures. It’s the oldest intact version of the text, which dates back to 1251, when they were completed.

They are housed inside the Janggyeong-panjeon library, which dates back to 1398, when the blocks first arrived at the temple. The temple, like Bulguksa Temple, is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.



Having visited over 400 Buddhist temples throughout Korean throughout the years, there certainly is no lack of beauty at these amazing houses of worship. And while I could name another twenty or thirty of them, I’ll confidently stick to these three. These temples claim the top three spots for both similar and different reasons; but there you have it, my favorites.


For more information on Korea's temples, check out Dale's newly released book – Korean Temples: From Korea’s Southeast Corner. And for even more regularly updated insight and photos, have a look at his website, Dale's Korean Temple Adventures.


Want to share YOUR Korea on Seoul Searching? Submit a guest post!

As most of you know, Korea has for a long time held a very special place in my heart and now that I am once again living in America, I am always looking for ways to keep it close to my heart – literally and figuratively.

A few years back, I quit my job as an English teacher and decided to study Korean full-time as a university student. At the time, I had forgotten what it was like to live without a steady income and it didn't take me long to realize that my habits of frivolous spending had to come to an end. For good.

You see, when you live in Seoul, especially if you're teaching English, it's easy to throw around money and not even realize you're spending it.  Between nights out bar hopping in Hongdae, dinners at upscale restaurants in Itaewon, daily morning coffee at Starbucks and shopping sprees on Garusu-gil, it's not difficult to blow half of one's salary in just a few weeks.

Of course, since most English teachers do not pay rent or car insurance or any other "grown up" bills that they would otherwise pay in their home countries, saving money isn't much of a challenge.

Still, for those looking to stretch their dollar- err, won- in one of the world's most expensive cities, there are some surprisingly easy ways to live more frugally. It's just a matter of knowing where to go and how to shop. Below, I've listed some of the ways that I've learned how to save money on food, clothing and entertainment while living in Seoul.


FOOD

It's common knowledge that Korean food is significantly cheaper than Western food in Seoul.  But what many don't know is how cheap Korean food can actually be.

While the average Korean restaurant will set you back about ₩5,000 ($4 USD) for a main dish and a few sides, university cafeterias offer very basic lunches that include rice, soup and veggies for as little as ₩1,800 ($1.50 USD). At Sogang University, you can "upgrade" to the professor's lunch that includes a buffet meal and dessert for just ₩2,000 more. The best part is that you don't have to be a student to take advantage of these cheap meals.  Just locate your nearest university and grab a spot in line to fill your belly for mere pennies.

When cafeteria food won't cut it, consider trying out your own cooking skills at home. Prepare a weekly menu ahead of time and stick to buying only the ingredients that you need. When you do go grocery shopping, consider buying seasonal produce from traditional markets instead of supermarkets or department stores. The prices are usually a fraction of the cost when you buy locally, and vendors will often give you freebies if you're a loyal customer. The fact that you're helping to preserve the country's market culture is an added bonus.

Photo: DiscoveringKorea.com

There is one exception, however.  Just before closing time (around 9-10 pm), supermarkets and bakeries will often have last-minute sales on perishable items that need to be sold before they spoil.  Keep in mind that these foods can be frozen or eaten as a late-night dinner or snack.

Also, the folks on the Expat Grocery Gurus group on Facebook are constantly posting great grocery deals they spot around the city, so keep an eye on that page, as well!

Health foods and vitamins are ridiculously overpriced in Seoul which can make eating healthy seem like an extra expense. iHerb is a godsend for those of us hoping to eat a bit cleaner. The America-based online shop features everything from chia seeds to snacks to vitamins and ships absolutely FREE to Korea when you make a purchase of $40.00 USD or more. One great (yet rather hidden) part of the site I recently discovered is the short-dated sale items, soon-to-be-expired products that sell for up to 70% off the original price!

CAFFEINE 

Although many people (including myself) require a daily intake of coffee, it can be ridiculously expensive to make visiting cafes part of your everyday routine. Coffee shops in Korea are far more expensive than those in most Western countries. Instant coffee, on the other hand, is dirt cheap and can be found just about anywhere in convenient little packets to throw in your bag or keep in your desk at work. Or, if you have a more refined palate, consider grinding your own beans. There will be an initial investment, of course, to buy the tools, but you'll save in the long run.

If going to a cafe is necessary, avoid bigger franchises and stick to take-out only or local cafes (that is, if you don't live in Gangnam). Almost all cafes offer some sort of stamp card system so be sure to pick up one of their cards and get it punched on each visit to earn free coffee. Many restaurants in Seoul offer similar programs to ensure repeat visits, so be sure to ask for one on your first visit. You won't be the only one; many Koreans have separate wallets for their stamp cards. 

CLOTHING

It's not easy resisting those shopping urges, especially when the seasons change and you want to stick to the trendy looks. Instead of dropping big bucks to get a new wardrobe, why not consider trading things you don't wear anymore with your friends? From time to time, there are bigger clothing swaps so keep your eye out on expat Facebook groups for events like these.

Sometimes, though, occasions arise that demand a new outfit or pair of shoes.  In these cases, I often head to the university neighborhoods, where cheap clothing stores can be found on just about every corner. Ehwa Women's University and Hongdae are two of the most popular areas for shopping for affordable, trendy wear. Shirts start at ₩5,000 ($4 USD) and shoes at ₩10,000 ($8 USD).


Dongdaemun Market is a bit pricier, but caters to a wider variety of ages and styles, rather than just focusing on trends for twenty-somethings. Here, shoppers can browse the multi-story buildings and haggle for bags, shoes and outfits for every occasion.

Another option for clothing shopping is the underground markets attached to subway stations. In addition to offering clothes at prices comparable to those in the university neighborhoods, these markets are very convenient and can even be explored en route to your destination. Don't miss the underground markets at Jonggak, Express Bus Terminal, and Gangnam stations.

A new way to keep your eyes out for sales is by finding your favorite brands like Uniqlo, H&M and Mixxo on "Plus Friend" on the Kakao Talk smart phone messenger. They will alert you to special promotions (think 50% off items or seasonal sales) and will sometimes even shoot you a valuable coupon.

PERSONAL ITEMS

For toiletries, the franchises Olive Young, LOHB's and Watson's are excellent places to find good deals. It's uncommon to not find some sort of sale on any given trip to these beauty and health shops. Although normal prices might be somewhat steep, 1+1 sales are the time to rack up on vitamins, shampoo, soap and deodorant.  It's smart to check these chain stores frequently for sales on your favorite products. These brands are also on Kakao's "Plus Friend" service.

The competition between Korean cosmetic shops is extremely competitive which is great for the consumer looking for a steal, as there are almost always promotional sales going on. Look for the shop girls shouting or for the numerous posters in the windows to find out what the daily deals are.  In addition, you can get free samples when you make purchases from these shops (or agree to take a look around).

For other random products like toilet paper, shampoo or laundry detergent, remember that bulk is better. GMarket Global is an English site that will deliver these items directly to your door, at a fraction of the price you'll find them at your local market.


Customers can sign up for free membership accounts at these cosmetic shops to accrue points with each purchase and to be notified via text message of membership days, when products are sold at up to 50% off their normal price. Shop employees in tourist areas like Itaewon and Myeongdong often speak some English and can assist you when applying for these free programs.

ENTERTAINMENT

Saving money doesn't have to mean sacrificing fun. In fact, it's important to get out, let your hair down, and meet new people from time to time.

If you're a film fanatic and a morning person, you can take advantage of matinée discounts, which are usually around ₩5,000 for the first-screening of the day, which is usually before 11 a.m. Some theaters offer additional promotions on certain days of the week.  CGV Cinecity in Cheongdam-dong hosts a "Lady's Time" from Monday to Friday in which women can purchase tickets for movies shown before 4pm for half of their original cost.

All can take advantage of the 50% discount at this venue on the company's brand day, which falls on the 11th of every month. Again, don't forget to rack up on those points. Also, if you have a mobile phone, your phone operator may offer you a membership card which will also get your discounts an entertainment facilities.


For those looking to watch live performances like Nanta, Miso, and Jump, Rush Ticket offers last minute discounts of up to 70% on performance tickets. The tickets can be purchased only on the day of the show. The tickets are available at KTO’s Tourist Information Center, where visitors can also get tourism-related information and additional discount coupons for products and services offered throughout the city.

Travelers will be happy to know that some provincial governments, such as Gangwon-do's, have shuttle programs that allow foreigners to travel around the country for as low as ₩5,000 ($4USD).

If you'd rather hit the nightlife districts, be sure to study up on (and memorize, if possible) Seoul's happy hour offers, mostly available in Itaewon. At all other times of the day, it's best to head back to those university neighborhoods. Sinchon and Hongdae are both great spots for a cheap night out, but Konkuk University (Geondae) is a lesser-known area packed with cheap pubs and bars and is definitely worth a visit. If you look around, you're likely to find bars selling draft beer for ₩3,000 ($2USD) and cocktails that start at ₩5,000.


Taking taxis can quickly turn a cheap night out into an expensive one, so consider taking the newly implemented late-night buses that include Hongdae, Jongro, Shinchon, and Dongdaemun on their routes.

Finally, there are plenty of things to do in Seoul that are absolutely free. Explore the hiking trails of nearby Dobongsan or Bukhansan. Wander the art galleries of Samcheongdong. Visit the city's free museums. Take a walk or shoot some hoops on the Han River. Find something that you like doing that won't drain your funds so that you can actually enjoy your time living in Seoul.

After all, saving money shouldn't feel like a chore. It should feel like a choice, and a rewarding one at that. Happy saving!

Do you agree with the suggestions above? How do you save money in Seoul?  Add your own advice in the comments section below.

Words by Mimsie Ladner of Seoul Searching. Content may not be reproduced unless authorized.

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